Aomori Museum of Art

Saturday, August 14

One of the many reason I love my husband is because of our common interest in art. He knows that I have a strange attraction to the macabre and he aroused my curiosity to magazines such as Juxtapoz and Hi-Fructose. Anyway, we were at an aquarium and he picked up a flyer for a limited-run exhibition on robots (another favorite Japanese icon of mine). Needless to say, I excitedly agreed to venture to Aomori City with kids in tow to see the exhibit.

There are two costs for the museum, the permanent collection (¥500) and the temporary exhibit (¥1,100). If both are viewed on the same day, there is a ¥200 discount, which is what we did.

Unfortunately, the museum prohibits the photography of any kind (even without flash) inside the museum L.

I would have relished the opportunity to take capture some of the images … a wooden and leather chair shaped in the form of a robot on one knee, old television and stereos reused to form a robot, the original humanoid corpse of Astro Boy, to name a few. Robots in the exhibit included both pre-war and post-war images. Original animated work, magna, and countless action figures of Gundam, Transformers, Tetsujin, Ultraman, Astro Boy and others fill the over five exhibition rooms.

Another exhibition that appealed to me was by Yoshitomo Nara, from Hirosaki City, is a prefectural native. Most of his work centers on children with eyes filled with sorrow. The museum manages over 150 pieces of paintings, drawings, and two installations.

The museum also commissioned Yoshitomo Nara to build two things, one of which is Aomori-ken, an 8.5m tall white dog outside the museum. Onlookers can see the statue from Exhibition Space F the inside the museum or from outside the museum. Outside viewing is not accessible for those in wheelchairs or with strollers because of the lack of elevators. To get to Aomori-ken dog, one would walk up one flight of stairs, walk across the building, then down two flights of stairs.

From October 9, 2009 through January 10, 2010, Studio Ghibli will appear as the museum’s next featured exhibit. If you are a fan of Hayao Miyazaki’s animated movies (Totoro, Kiki’s Delivery Service, Princess Mononoke, and Spirited Away) and do not get a chance to go to Tokyo’s Ghibli Museum, I suggest that you take the time to see this exhibition.

Aomori Museum of Art Hours: 09:30 – 17:00

Closed: Every 2^nd and 4^th Monday, December 27-31

Phone: 017-783-3000; Website: http://www.aomori-museum.jp/en/

First of all, I’d like to say, be weary of the directions provided by the museum’s web site because they are COMPLETELY not to scale. If you are already in the city center, it appears you can take Namidate-dori to the museum, which you can, but it will meander through residential streets with very few English signs. From personal experience, taking Route 44 or 120 southbound onto Route 7 west are better alternatives.

Aomori Museum of Art getting there from Misawa AFB

http://traveling-tengco.blogspot.com/2010/08/aomori-city-maps.html

Follow driving directions numbers 1 - 15 from my Aug 2010 blog: Aomori City Directions and Maps.

Get in the left lanes for Route 7 toward Aomori Airport. Continue along Route 7 passing Routes 103, 120, and 44 – all of which lead you to Aomori City Center.

Do not fret if you cannot locate road signs for Aomori Museum of Art. Most road signs will read Route 7: Hirosaki and Fujisaki. In addition, follow signs for Sannai-Maruyama Site, as it is next to the museum.

Look for the Sannai-Maruyama Site and Aomori Museum of Art exit on the left side.

Turn right at the bottom of the hill. Follow signs to the museum. There are two parking lost. This first one is disable-accessible. The second parking lot is the main one.

Aomori Big Buddha

Saturday, August 14: Daibutsu at Seiryu-ji Temple in Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture

There are over 20 large Buddha across Japan, each one having its own special feature. The Aomori Daibutsu, built in 1984, sits at 21.35m, and weighs 220 tons. Its insō, or hand positions, symbolizes the state of meditation. Ryuko Oda, a Buddhist priest and founder of Seiryu-ji Temple petitioned for its construction as a reminder of gratitude to those who died during WWII and as a symbol of Buddha’s teaching: the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold Path.

We visited Buddha during Obon week, when Japanese honor and pray for their deceased family and loved ones. At many temples and cemeteries during Obon, twilight signifies Buddhist services for the dead, which include lighting ceremonies (Festival of Ten thousand Lights). Though beautiful, I just couldn’t bring myself to visit during that time because I would feel like uninvited guests Harold and Maude at a funeral. Instead our family visited the Daibutsu early Saturday morning and I was able to take some unencumbered-people photos.

Bridge to temple entrance

Pagodas metamorphosed via Korea and China, but originally took the form of a stupa in India. The five stories represent five elements in the Buddhist universe, from the bottom: earth, water, fire, wind, and sky. Following the five stories are nine rings. Thereafter, the topmost chamber is believed to house the Buddha’s remains.

Chōzuya: This small pavilion contains ladles and water. It should be used to wash hands and rinse out mouths before praying in the main hall. If you choose to follow Japanese custom, please make sure you dispose of your used water at the foot of the basin and not back into the clean water basin.

Colorful pinwheels on the right slope (may be purchased to) honor unborn children. A Bodhisattva stands on the slope to protect them.

Japan’s longevity rate means that more people live longer lives. Many older people who start to forget things (like the old man and woman who cling to the feet of the statue) pay tribute to Bokeyoke Kannon in hopes of living a longer, healthy life, dementia-free.

Panoramic view of Buddha grounds

Detail of Buddha's face and crown

Omikuki and ema are two types of lucky charms found at temples. Omikuki, characterized by white mini-scrolls of paper, hold prewritten fortunes.
Conversely, worshipers write hopeful prayers or wishes onto small, wooden tablets with pictures called ema.

View from the left path

Ichigan Kannon: Translated, it means one wish. Give monetary offering and ring bells.

This is the fourth Buddha I have visited. Other I’ve seen include:

1. Stone Buddha carved into mountain side 31.05m (1783 CE), Nihon-ji Temple at Nokogiriyama, Chiba Prefecture
2. Bronze Buddha 13.35m (1252 CE), the Great Buddha at Kamakura, Kanagwa Prefecture
3. Bronze Buddha 14.98m (752 CE), Todai-ji at Nara City, Nara Prefecture

For a list and description of other large Buddha statues in Japan, checkout the website, Japanese Buddha Statuary:

http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/big-buddha-japan.shtml

Aomori Big Buddha getting there from Misawa AFB

http://traveling-tengco.blogspot.com/2010/08/aomori-city-maps.html

Follow driving directions numbers 1 - 14 from my Aug 2010 blog: Aomori City Directions and Maps.

Turn left when you see the Buddha sign.

Nebuta Matsuri, part two

Saturday, August 7: Afternoon Nebuta Parade

The Tohoku region hosts other Nebuta Festivals in various places; yet, the one in Aomori is the most famous. Every year, over three million visitors flock to Aomori City in the span of six days to watch 20 illuminated floats light the night sky. Another attraction of the Nebuta Matsuri is the very wild dances performed by 100s of male and female participants, called haneto, who march and dance merrily to the sounds of taiko drums and festival music, chanting "Rasse-rah, rasse-rah." Anyone can join the fun as a haneto by renting a costume from a local shop.

The Nebuta Festival takes place from August 2 to 7 in Aomori City. They begin parading along a 2.5-kilometer (1.5 mile) course. Lanterns are illuminated as dusk approaches (around 18:30) evening and finish up around 21:00. The peak comes on August 5 and 6, when the largest number of floats are out. On the final day, August 7, floats begin their procession about one o’clock in the afternoon. After the parade, floats can be viewed at ASPM. Later that the evening, three floats judged to be the best are taken to the sea and placed on ships for a cruise around the port of Aomori and fireworks wrap up the festival.

2010 Nebuta Festival Map Route 1

2010 Nebuta Festival Map Route 2

Be prepared for some VERY crowded conditions. Perhaps the best way to get there and back is by train (¥1280 each way). Although driving is discouraged because of the lack of public parking, we decided to pack the car and two children to head to Aomori City. After all, Kyle and I drove to Pasedena one New Year’s Day to watch a Rose Bowl Tournament Game, so I figured we could brace this crowd. After almost two hours via the scenic route, we arrived at our destination. The roads were closed at the police station on National Road 4, about four blocks from where the route took place, so we were detoured.

Unfortunately, we had a late start – it seems our timing is off with small children – and caught the last half of the parade. When the kids are older, I think I’d like to make this trip again to see the evening parade. The gallantry of the floats is somewhat less regal during the day. Not to mention, taking photos posed somewhat of a challenging because I am short (5'00"), tried to maneuver between people, keep an eye on my sleeping son and belongings, as well as switch between camera and camcorder; Kyle was feeding Talia. Life before children was so much easier, but we've become accustomed to the hustle and bustle. After all, it's only on the weekends, weekdays we stay home.

Large taiko drum precede nebuta floats

Backside of drums, followed by musicians and dancers

About 30-50 men push the floats around the 2.5 km parade course

It's difficult to image these are enormous papier-mâché floats

Young men and some teenagers underneath float

These guys are dedicated even in sweltering heat and humidity

Sometimes carriers rotate floats so onlookers can get a 360° view

Haneto dancer

Taiko drums configured differently

This was Kyle and my favourite float because it didn't have the traditional Japanese warriors, samuris, and onis. I thought it looked quite majestic.

Small children's floats accompany the larger nebuta floats

XL parade cone to block off traffic. Where do they get these things?

Aomori Tourist and Convention Center
Tel. 017-723-7211
www.nebuta.jp/english/index_e.htm

Nebuta Matsuri, part one

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri History and Float Construction

Legend suggests that nebuta comes from nemuri (sleepy). Blaming the devilish sandman for the drowsiness that plagued them on hot summer days, Aomori citizens originated this event to banish their tormentor. It's thought that the festival began as a way of waking up sleepy souls with the fall harvest season coming up.

Monday, July 5: Construction of Aomori Nebuta Matsuri Float

As I mentioned in my previous blog, I would recommend visiting ASPM during a summer months preceding Aomori’s famed Nebuta Matsuri because 22 large canvas buildings surronding ASPM temporarily house the construction of these parade floats. One can get a glimpse of artisans assembling the wooden frames, fastening lights, affixing paper, and painting historic Japanese figures on these ornate structures.

Subjects and rough drawings

Subjects depicted are from samurai warriors, historically famous generals, or characters bearing some resemblance from well-known kabuki plays. the map below shows what the 22 parade floats will look like and in which tents they are housed.

Framework, electrical wiring, and lighting

Prior to 1955, designers used bamboo to build the frame. However, builders now use wood to construct its frame. In addition, electricians apply about 150 kg (330 lbs.) of wire and 600-800 fluorescent tubes or bulbs to its frame. Before 1969 when 40 kW diesel generators were introduced to power lighting, battery-operated lanterns, kerosene lanterns, and wax candles illuminated floats.

Paper hanging and scene painting

To create the bare-white papier-mâché float, craftsmen paste about 2,500 sheets of high quality paper and one-sided news print with wood glue to each section of the wire framework.

Waxing, painting, and coloring

Borders between colors are marked out with paraffin to prevent blurring of ink. Artisans then hand-paint or spray on dyes and water paints to color the remaining blank parts. This process, combined with accentuated lighting, leads to the highly colorful floats.

Lifting the float

Finally, about 50 people lift the float onto its 2m high carriage, which also contains another generator, and is completed by hanging red and white streamers. Each finished float is about 5m high x 9m wide x 7m long and weighs between 4-4.5 tons.