Nebuta Matsuri, part two

Saturday, August 7: Afternoon Nebuta Parade

The Tohoku region hosts other Nebuta Festivals in various places; yet, the one in Aomori is the most famous. Every year, over three million visitors flock to Aomori City in the span of six days to watch 20 illuminated floats light the night sky. Another attraction of the Nebuta Matsuri is the very wild dances performed by 100s of male and female participants, called haneto, who march and dance merrily to the sounds of taiko drums and festival music, chanting "Rasse-rah, rasse-rah." Anyone can join the fun as a haneto by renting a costume from a local shop.

The Nebuta Festival takes place from August 2 to 7 in Aomori City. They begin parading along a 2.5-kilometer (1.5 mile) course. Lanterns are illuminated as dusk approaches (around 18:30) evening and finish up around 21:00. The peak comes on August 5 and 6, when the largest number of floats are out. On the final day, August 7, floats begin their procession about one o’clock in the afternoon. After the parade, floats can be viewed at ASPM. Later that the evening, three floats judged to be the best are taken to the sea and placed on ships for a cruise around the port of Aomori and fireworks wrap up the festival.

2010 Nebuta Festival Map Route 1

2010 Nebuta Festival Map Route 2

Be prepared for some VERY crowded conditions. Perhaps the best way to get there and back is by train (¥1280 each way). Although driving is discouraged because of the lack of public parking, we decided to pack the car and two children to head to Aomori City. After all, Kyle and I drove to Pasedena one New Year’s Day to watch a Rose Bowl Tournament Game, so I figured we could brace this crowd. After almost two hours via the scenic route, we arrived at our destination. The roads were closed at the police station on National Road 4, about four blocks from where the route took place, so we were detoured.

Unfortunately, we had a late start – it seems our timing is off with small children – and caught the last half of the parade. When the kids are older, I think I’d like to make this trip again to see the evening parade. The gallantry of the floats is somewhat less regal during the day. Not to mention, taking photos posed somewhat of a challenging because I am short (5'00"), tried to maneuver between people, keep an eye on my sleeping son and belongings, as well as switch between camera and camcorder; Kyle was feeding Talia. Life before children was so much easier, but we've become accustomed to the hustle and bustle. After all, it's only on the weekends, weekdays we stay home.

Large taiko drum precede nebuta floats

Backside of drums, followed by musicians and dancers

About 30-50 men push the floats around the 2.5 km parade course

It's difficult to image these are enormous papier-mâché floats

Young men and some teenagers underneath float

These guys are dedicated even in sweltering heat and humidity

Sometimes carriers rotate floats so onlookers can get a 360° view

Haneto dancer

Taiko drums configured differently

This was Kyle and my favourite float because it didn't have the traditional Japanese warriors, samuris, and onis. I thought it looked quite majestic.

Small children's floats accompany the larger nebuta floats

XL parade cone to block off traffic. Where do they get these things?

Aomori Tourist and Convention Center
Tel. 017-723-7211
www.nebuta.jp/english/index_e.htm

Nebuta Matsuri, part one

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri History and Float Construction

Legend suggests that nebuta comes from nemuri (sleepy). Blaming the devilish sandman for the drowsiness that plagued them on hot summer days, Aomori citizens originated this event to banish their tormentor. It's thought that the festival began as a way of waking up sleepy souls with the fall harvest season coming up.

Monday, July 5: Construction of Aomori Nebuta Matsuri Float

As I mentioned in my previous blog, I would recommend visiting ASPM during a summer months preceding Aomori’s famed Nebuta Matsuri because 22 large canvas buildings surronding ASPM temporarily house the construction of these parade floats. One can get a glimpse of artisans assembling the wooden frames, fastening lights, affixing paper, and painting historic Japanese figures on these ornate structures.

Subjects and rough drawings

Subjects depicted are from samurai warriors, historically famous generals, or characters bearing some resemblance from well-known kabuki plays. the map below shows what the 22 parade floats will look like and in which tents they are housed.

Framework, electrical wiring, and lighting

Prior to 1955, designers used bamboo to build the frame. However, builders now use wood to construct its frame. In addition, electricians apply about 150 kg (330 lbs.) of wire and 600-800 fluorescent tubes or bulbs to its frame. Before 1969 when 40 kW diesel generators were introduced to power lighting, battery-operated lanterns, kerosene lanterns, and wax candles illuminated floats.

Paper hanging and scene painting

To create the bare-white papier-mâché float, craftsmen paste about 2,500 sheets of high quality paper and one-sided news print with wood glue to each section of the wire framework.

Waxing, painting, and coloring

Borders between colors are marked out with paraffin to prevent blurring of ink. Artisans then hand-paint or spray on dyes and water paints to color the remaining blank parts. This process, combined with accentuated lighting, leads to the highly colorful floats.

Lifting the float

Finally, about 50 people lift the float onto its 2m high carriage, which also contains another generator, and is completed by hanging red and white streamers. Each finished float is about 5m high x 9m wide x 7m long and weighs between 4-4.5 tons.