To Hell and Back

Saturday, October 9

Mountain of Dread, Mountain of Terror, Mountain of Fear, and Mountain of Doom are a few of English names for what the Japanese call Osorezan – ubiquitous with death.

Reminds me of Catholics taking gallons of holy water

Sulphur trail

Keepers of the bridge

Along with Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture and Hieizan in Shiga Prefecture, Osorezan it is considered as one of Japan's Three Holy Mountains. Osorezan rests on the Shimokita Peninsula, on the northeastern tip of Aomori prefecture, on Honshu, the main island of Japan.

Before entering Osorezan, you have to cross the red arched Taikobashi built over the Sanzunokawa, which is the Japanese equivalent of the river Styx. Once you see its barren landscape, bubbling sulphur pits, and volcanic steam, you will immediately understand why it is thought to be the gateway to hell, where souls of the dead gather at the shores of the caldera lake before making their way to the underworld.

Various bodhisattva outside entrance

People may visit the temple between May 1st and October 31st, when weather is agreeable. Osorezan’s rocky terrain outside of the temple is not easily accessible for those physically disabled, in wheelchairs, or in strollers. The temple compound closes around dusk, so make sure you arrive in time. Entrance to the temple costs ¥500. Additionally, there are four medicated (stinky) baths differing in the effects they offer on the grounds of the temple right after the temple entrance and visitors can bathe in any one of them for free.

Rubbing the turtle's head for good fortune

Bodaiji Temple is built around a number of volcanic cauldrons, bubbling in all sorts of unnatural shades from canary yellow to blood red. Offerings scattered around the area include children's toys, pinwheels, flowers, food, and tiny bodhisattva Jizo (the sole protector of children) statues wearing red bibs, left by people who come to console the souls of the departed.

Japanese believe that unborn babies and children who predecease their parents are condemned because they are unable to repay their parents for giving birth to them. As atonement, their stranded souls build piles of stones, only to have demons smash them apart.

A little difficult to maneuver with two small children and stroller in tow.

Offerings

Though surrounded by a number of picturesque peaks and white sand beaches, Lake Usoriyama’s cobalt water is full of sulfuric runoff and far too poisonous to sustain any life. Due to intense volcanic activity, sulphur dioxide and other gas emissions permeate the air, causing an inescapable sharp stench similar to rotten eggs. Soil near some of the cauldrons may not be stable, and the liquids inside are literally boiling. Heed the warning signs, do not cross ropes, and head out if you start to get a headache or feel sick. Parents may want to provide masks for their young children mask to prevent excess inhalation of gas.

... this ebony bird beguiling my sad fancy into smiling,
by the grave and stern decorum of the countenance it wore ...

Osorezan Oomatsuri (Mt. Osore Grand Festival) annually July 20-24: This great summer festival is marked by mediums called itako channeling the departed for visitors from around Japan.

Osorezan Aki Mairi (Autumn Worship) annually October 8-10: This fall event is held to pray for household safety, a bountiful harvest, and the peaceful rest of one's ancestors.

Information (Japanese): Mutsu Division of Industry, Commerce, and Tourism 0175-22-1111

Web Info (Japanese): http://www.mutsucci.or.jp/kanko/osorezan/